After finally, finally, reaching Varkala at the end of
that truly epic train ride, the Vindacrew were pleasantly surprised by our
hostel choice of Jicky’s where we enjoyed our own cottage, mostly sans-insects,
with fans, a shower with running water, and a clean Western-style toilet – all
the comforts of home really!
Varkala Beach is a beautiful place, full of little hut
shops, cafes and restaurants a-plenty all with free wi-fi (which would beg the
question why I haven’t managed to post until now), and is a photographers dream
(on referring to myself as said photographer I use the term very
loosely!).
Two days passed very quickly, with great breakfasts and
real coffees, a few Kingfishers (beer), and shopping being the order of the
day. It became apparent on speaking with
the locals just what an undertaking we had undertook (!) by taking sleeper
train from Mumbai – even the locals thought we were crazy, and we have the
video footage to prove it!
Great food and company and a lot of chill time really
punctuates my couple of days there. I
also must admit to becoming the proud owner of balloon pants (my words,
probably not what they’re called!), and an anklet that jingles so that any
travel companion will be sure to know where I am. Handy or annoying, I’m not so sure, but I’ve
had no complaints thus far. Additionally
I am also the proud owner of a dark brown stain around my ankle from said jingly
anklet, where the supposed ‘real silver’ has left rust marks on my skin!
But Varkala was beautiful and fantastic, and frankly
hard to believe it was India. To take
us to current, Tuesday 16 October, just one short week after I left London, and
I was to separate with the Vindacrew as they departed South to their yoga
retreat, and myself North to experience the backwaters of Kerala – or so I
thought. Slightly nervously but positively
and with a sense of adventure I bid my farewells to the crew and jumped in my
rickshaw back to the train station we had so gratefully departed just a few
short days before.
After a little while a train turned up at my supposed
platform (but not at the time I was advised), and I hopefully jumped on not
really knowing if it were the right one or even going in the right
direction! All turned out fine though,
and I exited the train in the right place at my intended destination of Kollam
(see Bren, I can get myself from A to B on my own if I really try!).
On hearing the town centre was only 1km away I decided
to spare the 50p (honestly, you get soooo cheap here!), and walk with my pack
to check the place out. Having been
pointed one direction and starting out, I was then pointed the other and walked
back the other way, eventually making it – thinking frankly my curry belly I’m
already developing (read, NOT Delhi belly, so far, fingers crossed!), could use
the work out.
After walking around a wee bit I decided there wasn’t
much I hadn’t already seen before and jumped in a rickshaw to take me to the
only hotel that didn’t sound hideous or ridiculously expensive. It’s lovely, and right on the backwaters so
very peaceful versus being in the middle of the centre, but at £10 a night with
no wi-fi, dinner or breakfast included it’s ritzing it. Again, I completely understand that I have
spent that many times on a glass of wine in London, and yet here it just seems
over the top and slightly annoying (Dad, you’ll probably be pleased to hear my
new sense of the value of a dollar – let’s see how long it lasts once I get
home!).
So I arrive at my ritzy hotel to not another soul
around, and set out to find food and check out the mad beating drums on the
other side of the water, with the intent on finding a backwater cruise for the
morning. There’s a special celebration
on, not entirely sure what for but apparently there’s a boat-race in a couple
of weeks that seems to be the cause.
There’s been some pretty zany dancing and some way too loud music which
I was ushered to sit down and experience which was great, although with the eye
contact going on with the lead male singer I was worried I was going to be
asked to get up on stage and dance or sing with them or something crazy, which
thankfully I wasn’t. I’ve had some tasty
but possibly mildly dodgy vegetable pancake type thing which I’m really hoping
won’t make me sick later but am half expecting that it may, a few cups of chai
– I can’t get enough of that stuff and Chris Hooton if I get sick from the
‘scummier the better’ tea that will be your fault!
Sadly the point of my being here was to take a
backwater boat that would transport me from here, Kollam, to Allepey, but
apparently there aren’t enough tourists yet and it isn’t running at all, save
for me paying 12k rupee! And I can
appreciate it, as I haven’t seen another white person in my 8 or so hours of
being here. So there’s a 3 hour
backwater experience I can do in the morning which won’t actually transport me
but will still let me float around serene beauty for 3 or so hours, and even if
I have to pay double because the minimum they run is for 2 people, and I’ve
asked at 5 different places all to receive the same answer, then I think I’ll
do it regardless and then take the bus to either Allepey or Kochi tomorrow
afternoon – my first bus experience.
So it’s now 8pm, I’ve found a bar (which are not common and very hard to find, my liver will be pleased I’m sure!), watching 20-20 cricket, and eating not exactly sure what but some sort of tasty if not slightly too spicy for me vegetable curry and a Keralan version of naan. And by the way, to make all of you - particularly the Londoners - feel better, it’s raining! Joy!
So I’m soon to rickshaw back to my hotel and perhaps watch Ted which I’m excited about, ready and waiting for another action-packed day tomorrow! Can’t wait!
xxx
You trained from Mumbai to Varkala - OH MY GOD!
First Varkala meal |
Jicky's |
Varkala Beach |
Breakfast - nom nom! |
Rickshaw time |
Will jamming with the locals |
Our lil cottage at Jicky's |
Dot ready to rock and roll |
Our breakfast destination |
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